Nikon Digital D50
INTRODUCTION
This is how I take advantage of and arrange a D50.
Want free dwell phone help, 24 hours a day, 365 days a yr? Should you’re in the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon also has some of it is personal operator’s tutorials here.
I start off explaining issues so merely my mom can perceive, and get on to deciphering each menu merchandise for superior users on the bottom.
For more examples of why you’d want to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Photo Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of those changes require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the highest dial. The lovable preset modes often lock out some adjustments.
I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I never use the lovable little preset icon modes as a result of I want to set anything special myself.
ISO: I take advantage of 200. If the sunshine gets dim and my photos would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I by no means hassle with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears to be like superb at ISO 1,600 when you want it. I would much relatively have a slightly grainy but sharp image than a much less grainy however blurry one. In contrast to movie, the D50 seems to be great at excessive ISOs, so I take advantage of them anytime I would like them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, however often do not as a result of it additionally remains active in Manual exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the aim of the manual exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for handbook exposure mode takes extra time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Balance (WB): I would use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I favor hotter (oranger) images. I clarify white balance on my White Balance page and clarify extra about methods to regulate it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is referred to as NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) picture size.
I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO distinction! Significantly, if you happen to noticed these prints you wouldn’t be capable of sort them out either. I can see solely the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which is similar to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has one hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: should you want house, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The one technique to tell is by wanting on the file size.
I’ll use BASIC for events and sports once I’m taking pictures many a whole bunch and a whole bunch of photographs at once. In these instances I’m extra involved with time wasted for the information to transfer, copy and archive. Basic appears ninety nine% the same as FINE, even blown up big.
I’ll use FINE on rare events where I am capturing just some pictures and count on to look at them very closely. In these circumstances the additional size is not vital if I count on to be spending plenty of time analyzing every image.
I avoid FINE JPG because NORM gives me the same results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I’d run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a really visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon is aware of what they’re doing. That’s why they call it Normal and that’s why I normally use Normal JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I want the vivid shade I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to give colour as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Shooting Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Image > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > – - Completed > OK. If you forget to pick out “- – Performed” and hit OK it will not remember these settings! Particulars are on the Taking pictures Menu page.
For photos of individuals I either set the colours back to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the highest dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses haven’t any switches or settings. In that case, don’t worry.
More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which can be both “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.
On older lenses I go away it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is handbook focus. Generally you also have to move the switch on the digicam, which is a pain.
If the switch says “M/A – A” then I take advantage of M/A. This gives autofocus, and if I seize the focus ring it instantly lets me make handbook corrections. As soon as I faucet the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, offers each kinds of focus without ever having to maneuver any switches . It is the best.
Non-G lenses could have an aperture ring where the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the most important number, normally 22, if not 32 or 16. This quantity will probably be in orange on autofocus lenses. There normally is a lock to maintain this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you may get an error message from the D50.
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